Is Nice nice?
Dear reader,
This year I decided to give the French Riviera a try, and it allowed me to help you decide faster if it’s actually worth the hype. I hope you’re as thirsty for new adventures as I am for water in this hot weather, because I’m gonna take you on a trip to Nice.
I have to admit, the South of France has always been on my bucket list, and that’s why I’m so grateful it was my first summer destination this year. Initially, I wasn’t sure if I was more excited about the trip itself or The Weeknd’s concert in Nice, which deserves another article of its own. Today, I’ll give you some tips and tricks to enjoy the French Riviera without actually leaving you with a hole in your account. So, was Nice really nice?
The Nice viewpoint
Some people say you can truly fall in love only once in your life, and I couldn’t disagree more. I fell in love many times during these 5 days in the South of France. The first time was when I saw the incredible views of the beaches in Nice, feeling like Mr. Bean on holiday, finally spotting the well-deserved blue paradise.
The main coastal stretch in Nice is around 7km long, and you can find many pebble beaches that you can access directly from the Promenade des Anglais. My first steps after checking into the Airbnb led me to the viewpoint at Quai Rauba-Capeu, underneath Castle Hill (Colline du Château), right at the eastern end of the Promenade des Anglais. The view was absolutely phenomenal, allowing me to take in the beauty of the 7 km-long promenade and the charming Old Town of Nice. If you’re also a collector of photos with the big letters “I love…”, mark this spot, as you’ll add an “I love Nice” to your collection.
Promenade des Anglais
Quai Rauba-Capeu
Really Nice beach
My next stop was clearly one of the pebble beaches of Nice, where I enjoyed the fact that I wasn’t covered by sand after coming out of the water, even though I am a sandy-beach girlie. As a self-appointed beach expert, let me give you some tips and tricks to enjoy the public beaches of Nice.
If you decide not to spend your money on the sunbed section of the beach, take a big towel you can wrap yourself in when changing out of your wet swimsuit, as there are rarely changing rooms on public beaches. I would also recommend buying a pair of water shoes with a proper rubber sole, as the pebbles can be quite slippery and you don’t want to step on something sharp.
The sea at the main city beaches gets quite deep pretty quickly, so if you’re not a good swimmer, you can still enjoy the first 4–5 metres, where the water is still relatively shallow. I would rank the overall beach experience in Nice 7/10, as the beach was clean and wide, the entrance was free, and the sea was quite refreshing, which is very much needed in the high temperatures.
Nice & easy transportation
Let’s say you are on the passenger princess’s team like me and you’re not willing to look for a parking space for an hour, so let me give you some info about the public transport situation. Unlike Paris, it’s very easy to navigate the public transport system, as it’s tourist-friendly and actually made to make your life better, not to give you a headache.
Nice is well connected by trams and buses, with a single ticket costing €1.70. You can also purchase a daily ticket for unlimited buses and trams in Nice for €7, a two-day ticket for €14 and a seven-day ticket for €20.
If you want to explore outside of Nice, TER trains are convenient for coastal towns such as Cannes, Antibes, Monaco and Villefranche-sur-Mer. Compared to the rest of France, the trains are surprisingly affordable and regular. Just make sure you give yourself some buffer time, as they’re usually crowded and you might not get on.
However, if you arrive in Nice by plane, you’re staying for a week and want to get the most out of your trip, you can buy the €50 SudAzur Pass, which offers 7 days of unlimited travel across the Riviera, including Nice, Monaco, Cannes and Antibes, as well as buses, trams, TER trains and transport to Nice Airport. The return Nice Airport ticket is €10. The easiest way to buy your tickets is from the ticket machines at every tram stop and major bus stops.
Nice restaurants and cafés
After the beach, you’re probably wondering where to grab a bite. I actually tried a couple of restaurants, and I’ll share with you the top two options, as one offers a beach picnic and the other one a fancier dining experience.
Personally, I am a person who cares more about a memorable, unique atmosphere and the whole experience rather than being in a fancy, overpriced restaurant. So, if you like trying different things, I would highly recommend Pizza Pili in the Old Town of Nice. It is a takeaway pizzeria with very affordable prices (the most expensive pizza is €12), and the pizza is actually pretty good. They offer takeaway soft drinks, beer, and, of course, wine.
The best thing about this place is its location, as it’s only a 10-minute walk from the beach, where you can sit and enjoy your pizza in a French picnic style. I would highly recommend this option if you’re looking for an affordable pizza with a great romantic experience.
We are still staying with Italian cuisine because it’s arguably one of the best cuisines in the world, but this time I’m offering you a fancier dining experience. I’m talking about La Villa d’Este, right in the city centre, and the only advice I’d give you is to come pretty hungry, as the portions of pasta are enormous and truly delicious.
When it comes to eating pasta in a restaurant, I’m quite sceptical, but this place is a 10/10. I was surprised by the prices, as we are still on the budget-friendly side of Nice. The salmon tagliolini and Caesar salad were to die for. You can tell the restaurant is good just by judging the queue to get in. However, it moves pretty fast, and if you come slightly before or after the usual dinner time (7–9 pm), you have nothing to worry about.
When I’m on holiday, the only rule I follow is two coffees minimum. I just love to sit on a café terrace, take a break from exploring and enjoy my iced latte while watching people wander around. To be fair, it is my holiday guilty pleasure, which I try to convince myself I’m doing for you and to give you a peek into my coffee exploration. So here are the top coffee places that I would recommend to you.
Let’s start with a morning coffee with an incredible pastry. Even though I had some better coffees in Nice, it would be a crime not to mention this place to you. La Maison de Celine has the biggest variety of sweet and savoury pastries I’ve seen in a while, and I am absolutely sure that if you visit this place once, you’ll be coming there again. Not only are the pastries pleasing to the eye, but they’re also a real treat. It’s not exactly in the Old Town centre, but it’s worth that extra 10-minute walk.
If you find yourself in the Old Town looking for a nice iced coffee in the shade with an outdoor terrace, I highly recommend Blend for its delicious coffee and exquisite brunch in a cool, vintage setting. It’s also a vinyl shop, so music enthusiasts will find their piece of paradise in here.
And last but not least, when you go on a shopping spree, you might want to have a coffee break close to the main shopping street, Avenue Jean Médecin. I hope you’ll wander around Rue de Suisse if you want to get lost in the beauty of this cute street, filled with cafés and small restaurants, while enjoying the extraordinary view of the majestic cathedral Basilique Notre-Dame de l’Assomption, dating back to the 1860s.
I would recommend Hug Café for its nice coffee and breakfast deal, and Malongo Atelier just for their gigantic, fluffy croissant. My last piece of advice regarding choosing a restaurant would definitely be not to choose the restaurants on the main tourist streets, like Avenue Jean Médecin. You are paying more for your location than for the culinary experience.
Nice places to visit:
Of course, we didn’t come to Nice only for its nice beaches and restaurants. The cultural aspect is equally important. It would be a crime not to have an ice cream in your hand and wander with the crowd through the old stone streets, where history breathes at every turn.
I can’t even point out which street is the most charming, as behind every corner there is a new street filled with people shopping, enjoying the shade, or simply absorbing the unique atmosphere. Talking about ice cream, you can find a good one across the whole town. My personal favourite was Fenocchio, costing you only €2.50 per generous scoop.
Being refreshed with the ice cream, you’re ready now for a hike to Castle Hill, although I should probably warn you that the actual castle is no longer accepting visitors; Louis XIV had it demolished in 1706. The hike up is actually pretty manageable, and once you get there, you’ll be rewarded with incredible views, a beautiful park and, most importantly, the waterfall Cascade du Château.
The waterfall in bright daylight is stunning, with the sun rays creating small rainbows. It is a picturesque spot where everyone serves a diva. After walking uphill in the Nice heat, you’ll understand why it feels like a five-star spa treatment. It is supplied through the Canal de la Vésubie and has been part of the hill since the 19th century.
One important tip: bring a water bottle with you. Otherwise, you might reach the top so dehydrated that your only option will be to join the pigeons bathing above the waterfall to cool yourself down. There is also a café at the top, but personally, I wouldn’t sit down there just for the view. You can get much better ones from the hill itself or the town spreading below Castle Hill.
And while you’re exploring Nice, you’ll quickly notice one very particular blue object everywhere: the famous Blue Chair. The Chaise Bleue was created in the late 1940s by local craftsman Charles Tordo and became one of the symbols of Nice, lining the Promenade des Anglais and Quai des États-Unis.
It became even more remarkable with a giant blue-chair sculpture in Jardin Albert 1er, so if you want the proper photo rather than just sitting on one, that’s your spot. When you’re looking for a souvenir that isn’t yet another postcard of the same turquoise sea, look out for the little blue chair on magnets, postcards and other souvenirs. It’s probably the most Nice thing you can take home without putting an entire palm tree in your suitcase.
Nice is filled with remarkable cathedrals and monuments you can pay a visit to; it all depends on your schedule and how much time you want to spend in Nice. However, as I’ve already mentioned, don’t rob yourself of memories from the nearby towns and beaches, which I will provide more details about in my next article.
With love,
Barbs
